Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by creating permanent, productive farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes bruised and rotten grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

John Sanchez II
John Sanchez II

A Tokyo-based writer passionate about sharing Japanese culture and travel experiences with a global audience.